Ait Ben Haddou and the Kasbah Route to the Sahara
The UNESCO-listed ksar of Ait Ben Haddou is the first great stop on the road to the Sahara. Here is what to expect there and along the kasbah route that follows.
Ait Ben Haddou is a fortified earthen village — a ksar — on the old caravan road between the Sahara and Marrakech. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 and is the most recognisable building on the desert route, partly because film crews have used it for decades.
What the visit involves
You cross the riverbed on foot — dry for most of the year, with stepping stones or a short bridge — and climb the lanes between the earthen houses to the granary at the top. The climb is 15–20 minutes at an easy pace, on uneven ground and steps, with the valley view as the reward.
Allow an hour, or ninety minutes if you want to stop for mint tea. Some houses charge a small fee to pass through or to reach a rooftop; entrance fees and local guides are not usually included in tour prices.
Ouarzazate
Half an hour further east, Ouarzazate is the practical hub of the region and the usual lunch stop. The Taourirt kasbah on the edge of the centre is worth a short visit, and the film studios can be toured if that interests you. Both are optional and paid locally.
Skoura and the Valley of Roses
East of Ouarzazate the road runs through the Skoura palm grove, a dense oasis of date palms and kasbahs, and then past the Valley of Roses, where damask roses are harvested in late spring. Both are drive-through stretches with photo stops rather than long visits, and they are the reason the first day of a desert trip does not feel like a transfer.
How it fits your itinerary
Every one of our Merzouga and Zagora itineraries includes Ait Ben Haddou on day one, because it is directly on the route:
- 3-Day Sahara Desert Tour to Merzouga — €145
- 2-Day Marrakech to Zagora tour — €119
- 4-Day private Morocco tour via Merzouga — €930 private
The full driving breakdown is in Marrakech to Merzouga.
Practical notes
- Wear shoes with grip: the lanes and steps are uneven and dusty.
- Midday in summer is hot and shadeless on the climb; early or late is better.
- Carry small notes for entrance fees and tea.
- The ksar is a living site with residents nearby — ask before photographing people, as you would anywhere.
What comes next on the road
After Ouarzazate the landscape changes again at the gorges — see the Dades and Todra gorges guide — before the last flat run to the dunes at Erg Chebbi.
Frequently asked questions
- What is Ait Ben Haddou?
- A fortified earthen village, or ksar, on the old caravan route to the Sahara. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987.
- How long do you need at Ait Ben Haddou?
- About an hour to cross the riverbed and climb to the granary at the top, or ninety minutes if you stop for tea or take a local guide.
- Is the climb difficult?
- It is 15 to 20 minutes on uneven lanes and steps. Most people manage it comfortably, but wear shoes with grip and avoid the midday heat in summer.
- Are entrance fees included in desert tours?
- Usually not. Small local fees, the optional local guide and the film studios in Ouarzazate are paid on the day.
- Can you visit Ait Ben Haddou as a day trip from Marrakech?
- Yes, it is about four hours each way over the Tizi n'Tichka, but most travellers see it on the first day of a desert tour instead.
- Is Ouarzazate worth stopping for?
- It is the usual lunch stop, with the Taourirt kasbah nearby and film studios that can be toured if that interests you.
